Tag: Art

A Modern Guide to Palo Alto: Destination Restaurants, World-Class Art + Trendy Stays

For being a sleepy Bay Area suburb, Palo Alto has an incredibly outsized reputation—whether it’s because it’s the home of a certain esteemed university, the namesake subject of a James Franco film (it’s the actor’s hometown), or because it’s the heart of Silicon Valley.

And actually, there is such an abundance of activity here that even the local college kids are starting to realize that Palo Alto is kind of exciting. Yes, it’s a tech hub, but PA also has culture (it’s home to legit art museums and galleries), gorgeous nature (flanked by foothills and marshlands), and restaurants worthy of the big city (no seriously).

While housing prices here are Beverly Hills-esque and there are a few glamorous places to dine and drop some major bucks, Palo Alto is still a friendly, mostly glitz-free destination anchored by two main commercial thoroughfares (University Avenue in downtown and California Avenue to the south), with Stanford’s must-visit campus on the perimeter.

Where to Eat in Palo Alto

Michelin-starred chef Bruno Chemel’s original Palo Alto restaurant Baumé has been reimagined as Bistronomie by Baumé, a more laidback approach to modern French food with an exquisite six-course pescatarian tasting menu.

(Courtesy of Bistronomie by Baumé)

While Palo Alto has its share of decent chain restaurants that cater to the college crowd (and their visiting parents)—think Oren’s Hummus (this is the OG location), True Food Kitchen, Sushirrito, Shake Shack, Lemonade, and Sweetgreen—it’s also home to a number of delicious, independent restaurants worth a taste.

Bistronomie by Baumé

From the ashes of the covid-fallen modern french bistro Baumé has risen Bruno Chemel’s new Palo Alto project, Bistronomie. The brighter, more laidback, somewhat more affordable concept sacrifices none of the Michelin starred-chef’s signature style. Bistronomie’s six-course pescatarian tasting menu showcases fresh local seafood from sustainable, open ocean farms (two types of wagyu beef supplements can be added for those who can’t imagine a meal without meat). The white wine-focused bottles, glasses and pairings draw almost entirely from storied French vintners. // 201 California Ave. (Palo Alto), bistronomiebybaume.com

Bird Dog

With Bird Dog’s arrival in 2015, Palo Alto entered the world of the contemporary dining experience. Merging cuisines from Northern California and the Far East, chef Robbie Wilson creates playful yet comforting dishes including the signature (and Instagram favorite) wood-grilled avocado with ponzu and fresh wasabi. Meanwhile, a fried chicken thigh with green curry, egg yolk, and smoked uni puts an Asian twist on the classic Southern plate. Be sure to order a drink or two—while Palo Alto is no longer a craft cocktail desert, Bird Dog’s superb libations still stand out. // 420 Ramona St. (Palo Alto), birddogpa.com

Mediterranean Wraps

This California Avenue lunchtime spot has been a mainstay on best falafel lists around the Bay Area for over 20 years, and for good reason: The parsley-stained falafel balls are consistently right on the mark, crunchy on the outside, soft in the center, and never dry. Homemade hummus, tender schwarma, and delightfully sticky baklava make up the equally compelling supporting cast. // 433 California Ave. (Palo Alto), mediterraneanwraps.com

Vina Enoteca

Like University Avenue, downtown’s main thoroughfare, the Stanford Shopping Center is awash in foodie-approved chains (hi, Shake Shack and True Food Kitchen). The one exception is this standout Italian spot serving classic trattoria hits (al dente spaghetti cacio e pepe) but also mixing it up (Impossible sausage pizza). Excellent cocktails, especially the barrel-aged Negroni options, will make you forget how much cash you just dropped at the mall. // 700 Welch Rd. Suite 110 (Palo Alto), vinaenoteca.com

ROOH

While the pandemic raged, ROOH quietly opened its second Bay Area location on University Ave. With an eclectic interior drenched in bold colors and patterned wallpaper, this location focuses not on curries (though, yes, of course they have those, too) but on live-fire grilling and smoking meats like Sonoma duck and pork belly, and on stuffed breads like the green pea, goat cheese and winter truffle kulcha and the paneer chili roll. Mixologist Chetan Gangan has crafted an array of impressive cocktail concoctions inspired by Ayurveda, each bestowed a name in slang from around India. // 473 University Ave. (Palo Alto), roohrestaurants.com

Wildseed

At its brand new Palo Alto location, beloved SF plant-based Wildseed ditches the lunch rush and focuses its efforts on a hearty, comforting dinner service. Using local, seasonal ingredients, the restaurant replicates flavors from around the globe in dishes like wild mushroom zeppole (fritters), spicy yellow curry and Peruvian hodo soy tofu skewers. Their cocktail game is equally as fresh and indulgent, with grown-up standards and unexpected ingredients like pineapple kombucha, yellow bell pepper and olive oil-washed gin. // 855 El Camino Real (Palo Alto), wildseedsf.com/palo-alto

Protégé

When you’ve got a chef from El Bulli and The French Laundry teamed up with that former restaurant’s old master sommelier, expectations are bound to be be sky high. Fortunately for Peninsula gourmands, this pair of fine dining protégés, Anthony Secviar and Dennis Kelly respectively, strikes all the right notes at their split concept restaurant. The dining room showcases Secviar’s riveting cooking via a tasting menu; the lounge, meanwhile, serves equally intricate offerings (sablefish, geoduck, squid ink cavatelli) à la carte. On both sides, guests can count on knockout brown butter Parker House rolls and Kelly’s epic wine program. // 250 California Ave. (Palo Alto), protegepaloalto.com

Terún

By day, Terún is a power lunch spot (minus the suits and ties) for panini, salads, and branzino al forno enjoyed on the spacious back patio. At night, the pace slows, the lights dim, and professors and young couples alike file in for eggplant polpette, lasagna Bolognese, and wood-fired ‘nduja-zucchini pizza. While the pasta is generally quite good here, it’s the textbook Neapolitan-style pizza (with about a dozen toppings variations) that shines. Dolce vita vibes are further evident in the strong Italian wine list and frequent set of local Italian chefs stopping in for espresso hits at the bar. // 448 California Ave. (Palo Alto), terunpizza.com

Taverna

The blue door and whitewashed exterior are just the first hint that Taverna is prepared to whisk you off for a little getaway to the Greek Islands—and the warm hospitality, terrific taramosalata (cod roe spread), and tender-as-can-be octopus paired with quince almond relish do not disappoint. The transporting experience comes courtesy of a pair of front-of-house alums from Evvia, Palo Alto’s overhyped and overpriced sibling to San Francisco’s Kokkari, and an ex-Michael Mina chef, William Roberts. With compelling and soulful cooking—don’t think twice about ordering the custard baklava-like bougatsa for dessert—and Greek wine flowing with gusto, it feels like a celebratory vacation in the cozy space each night. // 800 Emerson St. (Palo Alto), tavernarestaurant.squarespace.com

Sundance the Steakhouse

They just don’t make ’em like Sundance anymore. This candlelit, dark-wood-paneled legend across from Stanford screams “elegant steakhouse” and has been the place for celebratory dinners in town since a little before John Elway was Stanford’s quarterback. The real decisions at Sundance are whether it’s a prime rib or filet mignon kind of night, and which California cab to pair it with. // 1921 El Camino Real (Palo Alto), sundancethesteakhouse.com

Sun of Wolf

The name is bizarre (it’s a play on the owners’ last names) and the contemporary Mexican, slightly globe-trotting menu is just as quirky—but in and exciting way. Opened in 2018, hip Sun of Wolf dishes standout duck confit tacos on handmade huitlacoche tortillas; sautéed shrimp in a chile negro butter; beet tartare; and super cocktails. It all receives howls of approval. // 406 California Ave. (Palo Alto), sunofwolfpa.com

Palo Alto Creamery Fountain & Grill

The retro diner setting feels straight out of American Graffiti, as does the Americana menu of patty melts, turkey dinners, and bowls of chili. Don’t overthink it at the Creamery, as locals refer to it. This is the place for a California burger (jack cheese, avocado, and bacon), outstanding soda jerk-made shakes, and giant slices of freshly baked pie. // 566 Emerson St. (Palo Alto), paloaltocreamery.com

Palo Alto’s Best Coffee Shops, Ice Cream + Snacks

The Mission-style architecture of the old Varsity Movie Theatre makes the Palo Alto location of Blue Bottle Coffee one of the Bay Area brand’s most dramatic spots for sipping lattes.

(Ana Kamin)

Zombie Runner

Part running store, part coffee shop-slash-roaster, Zombie Runner is a California Avenue institution for getting you ready for the SF Marathon while also keeping you awake at the office. While the walls are covered with the latest and greatest jogging shoes, you’re really here to browse the extensive collection of healthyish chocolates and licorice to compliment the excellent nitro cold brew or the house favorite Turkish cappuccino (a dirty chai done to perfection). // 429 S California Ave. (Palo Alto), zombierunner.com

Izzy’s Brooklyn Bagels

Yeah, yeah, we’ve heard what our New York friends say about West Coast bagels, but there is no complaining about the bagel scene in Palo Alto because of this longtime California favorite for spot-on bagels slathered with schmear. The kosher bakery also has knishes, babka, deli salads, and a whole lot more to go with its iconic bagels. // 477 California Ave. (Palo Alto), izzysbrooklynbagels.com

Rick’s Rather Rich Ice Cream

Palo Alto has a strong ice cream and gelato scene, but it’s worth trekking to a quiet shopping plaza at the Mountain View border for the uber-smooth creative and classic flavors of this cheery locals’ favorite for a cup or an overflowing cone of homemade ice cream. Good luck choosing from almost 50 flavors—we’ll steer you towards dreamy industrial chocolate and the lovely saffron-pistachio. // 3946 Middlefield Rd. (Palo Alto), ricksicecream.com

Backyard Brew

In a town full of adorably quirky concepts, this entirely outdoor California Avenue café/roaster (with lots of covered seating) might take the cake for its backyard location hidden off an alleyway leading to fantastic coffee, tea, and sandwiches. There are always dogs begging for a bite of the steak tacos on homemade tortillas, Stanford grad students focused on their laptops, and smooth jazz as the soundtrack for the sunshine-filled al fresco scene. It’s feel-good, chill Palo Alto in a nutshell. // 444 California Ave. (Palo Alto), aoccoffee.com

Café Venetia

This all-day University Avenue café really does seem like it was directly transported from Milan. A tidy selection of small sandwiches, pastries, and chocolates await at the espresso bar, best enjoyed on the sidewalk at prime people-watching tables. Yes, it’s ok to order a cappuccino after noon here. And no, nobody will frown upon a glass of wine ordered at 11am or an espresso at 9pm. Free snacks are set out on Fridays at aperitivo hour for guests who purchase a glass of wine, just like Venice’s cicchetti bars would do. // 419 University Ave. (Palo Alto), cafevenetia.com

Timothy Adams Chocolates

Bring your sweet tooth to Palo Alto’s Wonka-ish chocolate destination for exquisite bonbons, caramels, and luscious sipping chocolate. The boutique also functions as a small café with a selection of bubbles and sweet wines to pair with rose or coffee walnut praline bonbons. // 539 Bryant St. (Palo Alto), timothyadamschocolates.com

Blue Bottle Coffee

Set in the old Varsity Movie Theatre and opened in cooperation with the coworking hub HanaHaus, this just might be Blue Bottle’s most spectacular location courtesy of the gorgeous patio with a beautiful fountain and Mission-style architecture. In addition to their signature coffees, the cafe also offers breakfast and lunch dishes. // 456 University Ave. (Palo Alto), bluebottlecoffee.com

Tea Time

When the clock strikes 4pm, head to Tea Time for a cozy cup and petite bites. Traditional English tea sandwiches such as cream cheese and mandarin jam or turkey with cranberry relish are just a few of the many combinations. Choose from among 120 loose-leaf teas, from classic English Breakfast to hard-to-find Dragonwell green tea. The menu also offers classic butter scones and crumpets topped with strawberry preserves or shrimp and avocado. // 542 Ramona St. (Palo Alto), tea-time.com

Where to Drink in Palo Alto

Pull up a couch at The Wine Room for a glass of chenin blanc and a smoked salmon carpaccio on date in Palo Alto.

(Courtesy of The Wine Room)

Palo Alto Brewing Company

Simply known as the Tap Room, the city’s only craft brewery, owned by Palo Alto native Kasim Syed, showcases its own beers on tap, including the popular Hoppy Tart Deco sour and the powerful Barley Legal coconut porter, along with some guest beers in the rotation. The communal table invites you to join in for a beer, order some bar food, and make new friends. // 233 University Ave. (Palo Alto), paloaltobrewing.com

Vin Vino Wine

It’s hard to navigate through the maze of wine-filled boxes on the shelves and on the floor at this California Avenue wine bar/shop. Clutter notwithstanding, it’s worth checking out the retail and bar options at this Palo Alto wine nerds’ paradise.Barolo, Burgundy, Rioja, you name it—they’ve got the world’s great regions covered in impressive depth. The wine bar is really more of a tasting room, where various themes like “Vosne-Romanée 2010 vintage” are poured as flights for guests standing at the bar or sitting at one of the cramped tables. // 437 California Ave. (Palo Alto), vinvinowine.com

Calave Wine Bar

Who knew that California Avenue is a wine lover’s marquee destination? Calave, just a few steps from the Caltrain station, is the street’s chicest wine bar of the handful of choices—and its best for date night. The by-the-glass list is probably Palo Alto’s most extensive, and the various themed flights are thoughtfully put together. The peanut-butter-onion-cheese sandwich is the must-try snack—no, seriously. // 299 California Ave. #115 (Palo Alto), calave.com

Rose & Crown

With an entrance off a downtown parking lot, you might be surprised at Rose & Crown’s interior atmo—with wood paneling and no shortage of English and Irish ale signs, it’s all English country pub in here. Sure, you can grab a pour of Old Speckled Hen, but since this is also Palo Alto’s definitive craft beer destination, you can get your fix of the likes of Pliny the Elder on tap. // 547 Emerson St. (Palo Alto), facebook.com

The Wine Room

This cozy hot spot mixes Mediterranean and Moroccan styles with plush couches in the back room, but the wine menu features bottles from all over the globe. By-the-glass options aren’t just the castoffs either, with great choices like Foxen’s Chenin Blanc from the Santa Maria Valley or Tucker Wines’ Carneros Merlot. A small snack menu includes a cheese plate and smoked salmon carpaccio. // 520 Ramona St. (Palo Alto), thepawineroom.com

Palo Alto’s Best Shopping

Independently-owned sister stores Leaf & Petal + Cassis carry small, chic labels and locally-made jewelry.

(Courtesy of @leafcassis)

Yes, Palo Alto is dominated by malls, with Stanford Shopping Center flanking Sand Hill Road and the outdoor Town & Country Village at the northeastern edge of campus.

At the former you’ll find the usual big box suspects as well as a few smaller labels (think SF-based sustainable fashion brands Cuyana and Amour Vert). Town & Country is your place for athleisure and beauty—with Athleta, Marine Layer, and LaBelle Day Spa).

Here’s where else to shop in downtown Palo Alto.

Cielo

Stocked with the same international designers as it’s Fillmore Street sister store in San Francisco, Cielo is Palo Alto-s go-to for chic, high-end women’s clothes from designers such as Dries Van Noten, Sacai, Marsell, and Marni. // 477 University Ave. (Palo Alto), facebook.com/cielo.paloalto

Leaf & Petal / Cassis

This pair of independently-owned boutiques have long been setting the trend for well-heeled women of the South Bay. Both shops feature small, chic labels like White and Warren, The Great, and Birds of Paradis, and a curated selection of gifts and locally-made jewelry. // Leaf & Petal, 439 California Ave. (Palo Alto) + Cassis, 206 Homer Ave. (Palo Alto), lpetal.com

Letter Perfect

Given that a handwritten note is the most sincere form of communication, Letter Perfect has been supplying the beautiful essentials for loving missives, from hand-painted watercolor birthday cards to customized wedding stationery, since 1982. // 384 University Ave. (Palo Alto), letterperfect.com

Things to Do in Palo Alto: Art, Hikes + Hot Tubs

The strength of Pace Gallery’s Palo Alto location is tech-driven art installations, like this one from Japan’s cutting-edge TeamLab. Check the gallery’s website for current exhibitions.

(Courtesy of TeamLab)

Stanford Theatre

For a city known for its tech innovation, it’s fascinating how Palo Alto’s cultural crown jewel is a classic movie palace complete with a Mighty Wurlitzer organ. Built in the 1920s, this example of neo-classical Persian and Moorish architecture screens a wide range of early to mid 20th century films. Seeing a Hitchcock favorite or Casablanca from the balcony is as essential a Palo Alto experience as it gets. Unfortunately, the theater remains temporarily closed due to covid but hopes are high it will reopen soon. // 221 University Ave. (Palo Alto), stanfordtheatre.org

Rodin Garden and the Collection at Cantor Arts Center

The Rodin Garden and Stanford’s adjacent flagship art museum, the Cantor Arts Center, have the third largest collection of the French sculptor’s work in the world. Beyond Rodin, Cantor has intriguing exhibitions regularly, plus a terrific permanent collection of modern works, ancient art, and everything in between. Admission is always free, and they offer docent-led tours (also free). // 328 Lomita Drive at Museum Way (Stanford), museum.stanford.edu

The Anderson Collection

No Stanford visit is complete without admiring the outstanding Anderson Collection next door to the Cantor. The stunning modern structure boasts one of the world’s largest private collections comprising 20th century American art from the likes of Mark Rothko, Peter Alexander, and Frank Lobdell. The gallery displays permanent pieces such as Richard Diebenkorn’s Ocean Park #60 and features rotating exhibits, as well. // 314 Lomita Dr. (Stanford), anderson.stanford.edu

Pace Gallery

The West Coast outpost of the global set of contemporary art galleries known as Pace represents a host of envelope-pushing 20th and 21st century artists. Admission is free and exhibitions change regularly, but the art’s creative nature always invites lingering in the compact space. Look for immersive experiences from the likes of TeamLab and Louise Nevelson, whose exhibition Mirage is on view through April 9, 2022. // 229 Hamilton Ave. (Palo Alto), pacegallery.com

Baylands Nature Preserve

Almost 2,000 acres of bayfront marshland await walkers, joggers, and birdwatchers at one of Palo Alto’s favorite places to stretch its legs. The various trails are a great opportunity to get up close with the Bay and explore its distinct mixture of tidal and fresh water habitats. The Lucy Evans Baylands Nature Interpretive Center is a good starting point to help understand the plants and animals that call the Baylands home. // 2775 Embarcadero Rd. (Palo Alto), cityofpaloalto.org

Pearson-Arastradero Preserve

Some of the most rewarding views and breathtaking trails on the Peninsula can be found here in the Palo Alto and Los Altos foothills. The Preserve boasts gorgeous rolling hills covered by poppies in spring and lush green or golden grass all year long that seems right out of a “Welcome to California” postcard. Meanwhile, the views from several trails provide the rare vantage point for hikers to see the skyscrapers of San Francisco, Mount Diablo in the East Bay, and San Jose’s sprawl all in one spot. It’s almost guaranteed that there will be some deer or a coyote near your hiking trail, too. // 1530 Arastradero Rd. (Palo Alto), cityofpaloalto.org

The Dish Hike

Up in the Stanford foothills, there is a can’t-miss, 150-foot-diameter radio telescope called the Dish. It’s in use, but you can safely hike around it. Most of the Stanford-owned land is off limits to the public, but the 3.9-mile trail is accessible for everyone, and as far as its level of difficulty, we think it’s a walk in the park. Caution: The back-in only parking situation on Stanford Avenue is an absolute nightmare at peak times.

Watercourse Way Spa

This downtown Palo Alto wellness center has massages, mud wraps, and skin care services, plus the opportunity to book an individual tub room with sauna and steam. Check out their website for unique monthly specials. // 165 Channing Ave. (Palo Alto), watercourseway.com

Where to Stay in Palo Alto

A premiere suite at Palo Alto’s Nobu Epiphany Hotel.

(Courtesy of the hotel)

Nobu Epiphany Hotel

Downtown Palo Alto’s swankiest place to spend a night comes from global mega chef Nobu Matsuhisa’s hospitality group. The beautiful design of the public and guest spaces perfectly blends themes of zen tranquility, the savvy Silicon Valley tech world, and California’s sun-filled natural habitats. Guests can enjoy private balconies and plush Italian bed linens in all rooms, plus 24-hour room service available from Nobu restaurant. Tech gadgets include a G-link docking station and Revo Radio for tuning into internet radio stations. Non-guests can enjoy Nobu’s signature pricey Japanese-Peruvian creations on the ground floor restaurant, but only some will be able to check out the “famous” Cal urinal in the restaurant’s bathroom. // 180 Hamilton Ave (Palo Alto), nobuhotels.com/palo-alto

The Clement Hotel

As the headliner on El Camino’s hotel row just across the street from campus, The Clement Hotel is an elevated boutique stay with just 23 one-bedroom suites tricked out with Frette linens, Nespresso machines, divinely deep soaking tubs, and plenty of high-tech amenities. The Clement is all-inclusive, so feel free to pop down to the kitchen any time day or night to grab a snack or a meal; or order your breakfast to be sent up to the rooftop pool. The rate also includes high-speed WiFi, valet parking, laundry, and even a nightly shoeshine service. This level of service comes with a price tag, but for traveling tech elite and proud Stanford parents with coin, this is home away from home. // 711 El Camino Real (Palo Alto), theclementpaloalto.com

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10 Napa + Sonoma Wineries for Art Lovers

World-renowned for its wine and food culture, Napa Valley’s vibrant art scene is too often overshadowed by the region’s raison d’etre.

Develop your taste from the palate to the palette at these wineries and tasting rooms with museum-quality galleries and outdoor sculpture installations by such artists as Keith Haring, Ai Weiwei, Ansel Adams, Andy Goldsworthy, Yayoi Kusama, and more.

Donum Estate

Ugo Rondinone, Nuns + monks (Orange Yellow Monk, Black Red Nun, and White Blue Monk). Painted bronze, various sizes, 2020 © The Donum Collection and the artist.

(Photo by Robert Berg)

On 200 bucolic acres, Donum Estate is notable for its chardonnay and Burgundian-style pinot noir crafted by winemaker Dan Fishman. But it’s also a must-visit for its high-end sculpture park, an open air gallery that showcases more than 40 installations by major international artists.

Inhale the aroma of the grapes as you wander around Artificial Rock, a stainless-steel piece by Chinese artist Zhang Wang; take an astrological journey in the Circle of Animal/Zodiac Heads by AI Weiwei, located inside a zen garden-like space; take a selfie with Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama’s Pumpkin; and play like a royal with Keith Haring’s King and Queen sculpture, produced just three years before his death. More of the collection resides inside the Donum Home, including the Crouching Spider by Paris-born artist Louise Bourgeois, whose works appear at SFMOMA.

Even if you’ve visited before, there’s always something new to see. Recent acquisitions include Rehearsal, a monumental wall hanging sculpture by Nigeria-based El Anatsui; Nuns + Monks by Ugo Rondinone; Doug Aitken’s Sonic Mountain; and Robert Indiana’s iconic LOVE sign.

This spring, Donum will unveil a new architectural gem: a hilltop tasting pavilion created by artist Olafur Eliasson and architect Sebastian Behmann’s Studio Other Spaces. —Anna Volpicelli

// Open by reservation only by calling 707.732.2200; 24500 Ramal Rd. (Sonoma), thedonumestate.com.

​Imagery Estate Winery

(Courtesy of Imagery Estate Winery)

Imagery Estate—founded by Joe Benziger and now fronted by his daughter, resident winemaker Jamie Benziger—infuses art into every facet of its winery experience. Imagery also directly with artists—so far, they’ve collaborated with 400 creatives and counting—to commission unique designs for their bottle labels. Of more than 600 artworks created so far, about 60 pieces are displayed for for viewed in the winery’s onsite art gallery. The artists hail from all over the world, including Japan’s Shoichi Ida, Brazil’s Goncalo Ivo, and late American artist Sol LeWitt. —Sydney Fogel

// Walk-ins welcome 10am to 5pm Thursday through Monday; 14335 Hwy 12 (Glen Ellen), imagerywinery.com

Hess Collection

Andy Goldsworthy’s Rock Pools.

(Courtesy of Hess Collection)

Located above the tasting room, Hess Collection’s modern-art gallery exhibits artists from proprietor Donald Hess’ personal collection, curated over 40 years. The gallery currently features several pieces from environmental sculptor Andy Goldsworthy, who is well known among San Francisco hikers and art lovers for his Presidio installations Spire and Wood Line. Here, Goldsworthy’s Rock Pools consists of large melted stones that he fired up in a kiln. A new addition to the Hess Collection is Super Wall Flower, by the late Alan Rath, which explores the intersection of the natural world and technology. —Jess Lander

// Open weekdays by appointment; 4411 Redwood Rd. (Napa), hesscollection.com

Cliff Lede Vineyards

(Bob McCleanahan)

Music, art, and wine collide at the Howard Backen–designed Cliff Lede Vineyards, where even the vineyard blocks are named after rock hits like My Generation and Dark Side of the Moon. The winery’s swanky Backstage Lounge is a private tasting room and art gallery that celebrates icons of rock and roll and also has artworks for purchase by the likes of John Lennon, Grace Slick, and Jerry Garcia. As a bonus, this experience gives you a backstage pass to Cliff Lede’s top, limited-production juice. Also notice the permanent collection of structures from artists including Kim Dine and Boaz Vaddia on the winery grounds. More interested in verse? Check into Cliff Lede’s Erin Martin–designed Poetry Inn. —Jess Lander

// Tastings are available daily by reservation; 1473 Yountville Cross Rd. (Yountville), cliffledevineyards.com

Acumen Wine

(Courtesy of Acumen)

This downtown Napa tasting room comes with its own contemporary art gallery. Acumen crafts boutique wines from their organically farmed Atlas Peak vineyards, which can be sampled in this chic tasting salon complete with some repurposed art, like chandeliers crafted from steel tank heads and a bar from a fallen vineyard oak tree. In the back, the rotating gallery currently features Perception, an exhibit of artist Marc Foster’s three-dimensional metal sculptures that are meant to be viewed from various angles. Take a piece home as a memento of your visit. —Jess Lander

// Open 3pm to 6pm Monday through Thursday and noon to 6pm Friday through Sunday, reservations preferred;1315 First St. (Napa), acumenwine.com

Brasswood Napa Valley

(Courtesy of Brasswood)

This Wine Country campus has it all: a winery, restaurant, bakery, event space, and even an art gallery of rotating exhibits—previous displays have included works by Salvador Dali and the famous animal sculptures of French artist Cévé. This spring, see Sites and Insights 2022 (April 4th through May 1st), a showcase of recent photography by native Californian Gary Fishman. The gallery is open to all Brasswood visitors, just be sure to schedule your tasting experience in advance. —Jess Lander

// 3111 St Helena Hwy (St Helena), brasswood.com

​Turnbull Wines

The Gallery Bar is lined with the iconic black and white photography of Ansel Adams.

(Courtesy of Turnbull Wines)

Napa Valley’s Turnbull is a landmark for lovers of architecture, design, and art, thanks foremost to its architect founder William Turnbull Jr., notable for his work on Sonoma County’s iconic Sea Ranch. These days, art collector Patrick O’Dell, the winery’s current owner, is curating the experience.

The tasing rooms and garden have been designed to show off O’Dell’s incredible collection of photography, including one of the country’s largest collections of Ansel Adams images as well as works by Ruth Bernhard, Imogen Cunningham, Alfred Stieglitz, Paul Strand, Edward Weston, and more. Expect to see 50 to 70 artworks on display at a given time. Sip a glass of Turnbull’s signature Josephine Sauvignon Blanc while contemplating Abractions, the current exhibition of photographs by 23 different artists taken between 1897 and 2011. —Anna Volpicelli

// Open by appointment, 10 am to 4:30pm daily; 8210 St. Helena Highway (Oakville), turnbullwines.com.

St. Supery Estate Vineyards & Winery

(Courtesy of St. Supery)

This idyllic, French countryside-inspired estate—owned by none other than Chanel—pairs estate grown sauvignon blanc and cabernet with art. Visitors can casually wander up to view the second-floor gallery’s contents, which rotate throughout the year. Recent exhibits have included paintings by artist Stephen Coyle, but this season St. Supery pays tribute to Everyday Heroes, which highlights local volunteers in fields of animal rescue, youth mentorship, mental health, food security, and more via 24 large-scale photographs by various Bay Area photographers. In addition, the gallery is also featuring solo exhibits for Keith Blodgett, John Comisky, and Sally Seymour. —Jess Lander

// Gallery is open daily, tastings are by reservation; 8440 St. Helena Hwy (Rutherford), stsupery.com.

Hall Napa Valley

Best known for the 35-foot tall Bunny Foo Foo leaping out of the vineyards on the edge of Highway 29 in St. Helena, Hall’s not-so-subtle Lawrence Argent sculpture is just one of 35 seriously whimsical contemporary pieces you’ll experience as you meander through the historic winery with a glass of vino in hand. Other works include a life-size, white camel sculpture by John Baldessari and a viewfinder by Alyson Shotz, designed with roughly 30 different lenses for a kaleidoscopic perspective of the estate vineyards. Want to dig in? Reserve the Wine and Art Exploration experience. —Jess Lander

// Open daily for tours and tastings; 401 St. Helena Hwy (St. Helena), hallwines.com

Larkmead Vineyards

A piece from the Keeping Accounts series by Kate Solari Baker.

(Courtesy of Landmark Vineyards)

One of the oldest wineries in Napa Valley, the quaint, 1895 Larkmead estate in Calistoga displays the artwork of proprietor Kate Solari Baker, who grew up in Napa Valley and started painting in the ’80s. She’s known for her multimedia art and pastel landscapes, some of which you can view in Larkmead’s renovated historic barn. Her Keeping Accounts ledger collages are especially on theme; Baker created this series from the winery’s 20th century ledgers that her mother kept, which she’s incorporated into colorful vineyard landscapes. —Jess Lander

// Estate tastings ($125/guest) are available by appointment only; 1100 Larkmead Lane (Calistoga), larkmead.com

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10 Napa Valley Wineries for Art Lovers

World-renowned for its wine and food culture, Napa Valley’s vibrant art scene is too often overshadowed by the region’s raison d’etre.

Develop your taste from the palate to the palette at these wineries and tasting rooms with museum-quality galleries and outdoor sculpture installations by such artists as Keith Haring, Ai Weiwei, Ansel Adams, Andy Goldsworthy, Yayoi Kusama, and more.

Donum Estate

Ugo Rondinone, Nuns + monks (Orange Yellow Monk, Black Red Nun, and White Blue Monk). Painted bronze, various sizes, 2020 © The Donum Collection and the artist.

(Photo by Robert Berg)

On 200 bucolic acres, Donum Estate is notable for its chardonnay and Burgundian-style pinot noir crafted by winemaker Dan Fishman. But it’s also a must-visit for its high-end sculpture park, an open air gallery that showcases more than 40 installations by major international artists.

Inhale the aroma of the grapes as you wander around Artificial Rock, a stainless-steel piece by Chinese artist Zhang Wang; take an astrological journey in the Circle of Animal/Zodiac Heads by AI Weiwei, located inside a zen garden-like space; take a selfie with Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama’s Pumpkin; and play like a royal with Keith Haring’s King and Queen sculpture, produced just three years before his death. More of the collection resides inside the Donum Home, including the Crouching Spider by Paris-born artist Louise Bourgeois, whose works appear at SFMOMA.

Even if you’ve visited before, there’s always something new to see. Recent acquisitions include Rehearsal, a monumental wall hanging sculpture by Nigeria-based El Anatsui; Nuns + Monks by Ugo Rondinone; Doug Aitken’s Sonic Mountain; and Robert Indiana’s iconic LOVE sign.

This spring, Donum will unveil a new architectural gem: a hilltop tasting pavilion created by artist Olafur Eliasson and architect Sebastian Behmann’s Studio Other Spaces. —Anna Volpicelli

// Open by reservation only by calling 707.732.2200; 24500 Ramal Rd. (Sonoma), thedonumestate.com.

​Imagery Estate Winery

(Courtesy of Imagery Estate Winery)

Imagery Estate—founded by Joe Benziger and now fronted by his daughter, resident winemaker Jamie Benziger—infuses art into every facet of its winery experience. Imagery also directly with artists—so far, they’ve collaborated with 400 creatives and counting—to commission unique designs for their bottle labels. Of more than 600 artworks created so far, about 60 pieces are displayed for for viewed in the winery’s onsite art gallery. The artists hail from all over the world, including Japan’s Shoichi Ida, Brazil’s Goncalo Ivo, and late American artist Sol LeWitt. —Sydney Fogel

// Walk-ins welcome 10am to 5pm Thursday through Monday; 14335 Hwy 12 (Glen Ellen), imagerywinery.com

Hess Collection

Andy Goldsworthy’s Rock Pools.

(Courtesy of Hess Collection)

Located above the tasting room, Hess Collection’s modern-art gallery exhibits artists from proprietor Donald Hess’ personal collection, curated over 40 years. The gallery currently features several pieces from environmental sculptor Andy Goldsworthy, who is well known among San Francisco hikers and art lovers for his Presidio installations Spire and Wood Line. Here, Goldsworthy’s Rock Pools consists of large melted stones that he fired up in a kiln. A new addition to the Hess Collection is Super Wall Flower, by the late Alan Rath, which explores the intersection of the natural world and technology. —Jess Lander

// Open weekdays by appointment; 4411 Redwood Rd. (Napa), hesscollection.com

Cliff Lede Vineyards

(Bob McCleanahan)

Music, art, and wine collide at the Howard Backen–designed Cliff Lede Vineyards, where even the vineyard blocks are named after rock hits like My Generation and Dark Side of the Moon. The winery’s swanky Backstage Lounge is a private tasting room and art gallery that celebrates icons of rock and roll and also has artworks for purchase by the likes of John Lennon, Grace Slick, and Jerry Garcia. As a bonus, this experience gives you a backstage pass to Cliff Lede’s top, limited-production juice. Also notice the permanent collection of structures from artists including Kim Dine and Boaz Vaddia on the winery grounds. More interested in verse? Check into Cliff Lede’s Erin Martin–designed Poetry Inn. —Jess Lander

// Tastings are available daily by reservation; 1473 Yountville Cross Rd. (Yountville), cliffledevineyards.com

Acumen Wine

(Courtesy of Acumen)

This downtown Napa tasting room comes with its own contemporary art gallery. Acumen crafts boutique wines from their organically farmed Atlas Peak vineyards, which can be sampled in this chic tasting salon complete with some repurposed art, like chandeliers crafted from steel tank heads and a bar from a fallen vineyard oak tree. In the back, the rotating gallery currently features Perception, an exhibit of artist Marc Foster’s three-dimensional metal sculptures that are meant to be viewed from various angles. Take a piece home as a memento of your visit. —Jess Lander

// Open 3pm to 6pm Monday through Thursday and noon to 6pm Friday through Sunday, reservations preferred;1315 First St. (Napa), acumenwine.com

Brasswood Napa Valley

(Courtesy of Brasswood)

This Wine Country campus has it all: a winery, restaurant, bakery, event space, and even an art gallery of rotating exhibits—previous displays have included works by Salvador Dali and the famous animal sculptures of French artist Cévé. This spring, see Sites and Insights 2022 (April 4th through May 1st), a showcase of recent photography by native Californian Gary Fishman. The gallery is open to all Brasswood visitors, just be sure to schedule your tasting experience in advance. —Jess Lander

// 3111 St Helena Hwy (St Helena), brasswood.com

​Turnbull Wines

The Gallery Bar is lined with the iconic black and white photography of Ansel Adams.

(Courtesy of Turnbull Wines)

Napa Valley’s Turnbull is a landmark for lovers of architecture, design, and art, thanks foremost to its architect founder William Turnbull Jr., notable for his work on Sonoma County’s iconic Sea Ranch. These days, art collector Patrick O’Dell, the winery’s current owner, is curating the experience.

The tasing rooms and garden have been designed to show off O’Dell’s incredible collection of photography, including one of the country’s largest collections of Ansel Adams images as well as works by Ruth Bernhard, Imogen Cunningham, Alfred Stieglitz, Paul Strand, Edward Weston, and more. Expect to see 50 to 70 artworks on display at a given time. Sip a glass of Turnbull’s signature Josephine Sauvignon Blanc while contemplating Abractions, the current exhibition of photographs by 23 different artists taken between 1897 and 2011. —Anna Volpicelli

// Open by appointment, 10 am to 4:30pm daily; 8210 St. Helena Highway (Oakville), turnbullwines.com.

St. Supery Estate Vineyards & Winery

(Courtesy of St. Supery)

This idyllic, French countryside-inspired estate—owned by none other than Chanel—pairs estate grown sauvignon blanc and cabernet with art. Visitors can casually wander up to view the second-floor gallery’s contents, which rotate throughout the year. Recent exhibits have included paintings by artist Stephen Coyle, but this season St. Supery pays tribute to Everyday Heroes, which highlights local volunteers in fields of animal rescue, youth mentorship, mental health, food security, and more via 24 large-scale photographs by various Bay Area photographers. In addition, the gallery is also featuring solo exhibits for Keith Blodgett, John Comisky, and Sally Seymour. —Jess Lander

// Gallery is open daily, tastings are by reservation; 8440 St. Helena Hwy (Rutherford), stsupery.com.

Hall Napa Valley

Best known for the 35-foot tall Bunny Foo Foo leaping out of the vineyards on the edge of Highway 29 in St. Helena, Hall’s not-so-subtle Lawrence Argent sculpture is just one of 35 seriously whimsical contemporary pieces you’ll experience as you meander through the historic winery with a glass of vino in hand. Other works include a life-size, white camel sculpture by John Baldessari and a viewfinder by Alyson Shotz, designed with roughly 30 different lenses for a kaleidoscopic perspective of the estate vineyards. Want to dig in? Reserve the Wine and Art Exploration experience. —Jess Lander

// Open daily for tours and tastings; 401 St. Helena Hwy (St. Helena), hallwines.com

Larkmead Vineyards

A piece from the Keeping Accounts series by Kate Solari Baker.

(Courtesy of Landmark Vineyards)

One of the oldest wineries in Napa Valley, the quaint, 1895 Larkmead estate in Calistoga displays the artwork of proprietor Kate Solari Baker, who grew up in Napa Valley and started painting in the ’80s. She’s known for her multimedia art and pastel landscapes, some of which you can view in Larkmead’s renovated historic barn. Her Keeping Accounts ledger collages are especially on theme; Baker created this series from the winery’s 20th century ledgers that her mother kept, which she’s incorporated into colorful vineyard landscapes. —Jess Lander

// Estate tastings ($125/guest) are available by appointment only; 1100 Larkmead Lane (Calistoga), larkmead.com

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From street art to Steph Curry's sneakers, the creativity of Oakland artist Hueman is unbound

There’s virtually no way you haven’t seen Hueman’s work.

In the last three years alone, the artist’s bold, “etherealistic” style has brightened up Lyft bikes and the debut trainers in Steph Curry’s new shoe line, the Curry 8. Her fractured portrait of Pink graces the cover of the musician’s 2019 album Hurts 2B Human; andher whirling color palette was featured in a 2019 line of “body painted” jumpsuits, jackets, and athleisure at Forever 21.

Not sounding familiar yet? Maybe you remember Hueman’s collaborations with The North Face, the 2016 USA Women’s Basketball Team, or NYX Cosmetics? Or maybe you’ve seen her murals in Oakland, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Ft. Lauderdale, Detroit, Gothenburg, Sweden, Port-Au-Prince, Haiti or half a dozen other cities around the world? Or maybe you caught her recent immersive installation Homebody at Berkeley’s Ciel Creative Space, a show inspired by pandemic-induced isolation and self-metamorphosis?

Yeah, you’ve seen her work. How could you not?

Hueman, aka Allison Torneros, has been a prolific artist since childhood (“I’m very much a Capricorn,” she unabashedly explains, “I’m a workaholic.”). But like the transformation she captures in Homebody, Torneros has emerged from her pandemic cocoon not just as an artist or a commercial designer, but as a multi-hyphenate creative director.

“I think most high-brow art people would look down on someone who does so much commercial work, but it’s those projects that have afforded me the chance to do something like Homebody,” says Torneros. Her creativity is not either-or but a both-and.

Torneros grew up a lone artistic kid in a Filipino-American family in the East Bay. She didn’t dream of being an artist; it wasn’t exactly a lucrative career path. She took a more practical route toward design and media arts at UCLA instead, one she might have stuck with if it hadn’t been for her first San Francisco gallery show which, at age 18, tore the veil from her ambition and sent her careening towards an unexpected future.

The next piece fell into place after college when Torneros began painting wall murals. She felt so alive, so far away from the robotic, computer-based work she had been doing, that she took on a new alias: Hueman. In the male-dominated graffiti landscape, Hueman’s signature “freestyle” approach—in which she builds faces and imagery from abstract sprays and blotches of paint—stood out. The more she hustled, the more her work paid off: Her murals began to multiply, first in L.A. and the Bay Area—hers was one of the first commissioned in L.A. after the city lifted its street art ban in 2013—then around the world.

Hueman’s 2016 mural at the Academy for Peace & Justice in Port-au-Prince, Haiti.(Courtesy of @Hueman_)

Hueman dabbled for the first time in immersive art in 2013 with Ritual, a nine-day take-over of a 6,000-foot L.A. warehouse replete with freestyle murals, creative collaborations, and performances.

“It felt very underground and the fact that it was this self-initiated thing was super important. I was able to control the vibe and the culture of what was happening in that space,” she explains. “I’ve been chasing that dragon since then, wanting to create something fully immersive that involves the entire community and brings people together.”

With Homebody, Torneros finally caught it, ironically gathering community around a show about pandemic isolation. Although the multi-room exhibition left Ciel at the end of February, the show, which was designed to travel, will reopen at L.A.’s new Mirus Gallery later this year, and hopefully at others down the road.

“That’s my big baby right now,” Torneros says.

Really, though, it’s just one of several progeny she’s nurturing at the moment, most important among them is her two-year-old daughter, Sophie. “I’ve got a couple of huge collaborations coming this year,” she teases, plus “a few NFT projects coming out in the next few months.”

Yeah, like she said, she’s a Capricorn.

// Follow the artist at @hueman_ and huemannature.com.

Allison Torneros, aka Hueman, in her Oakland studio.(Courtesy of @Hueman_)

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2022 Spring Arts Preview: Alice Neel, Boyz II Men, Art Market SF + More

The arts are back with a vengeance this spring in San Francisco and around the Bay Area.

From innovative art fairs to explosive dance performances to award-winning theater, these evocative exhibitions and productions will help to remind you of the beauty in our collective humanity.

Art Galleries, Museums + Fairs

(Eric Stracke, Courtesy of Art Market San Francisco)

Aili Schmeltz and Katy Stone: Receiver

This exhibition at Oakland’s Johansson Projects features works by two artists looking to the natural world for inspiration, Aili Schmeltz and Katy Stone. The show will combine sculptural elements, textile processes and paintings that tie personal stories to shared landscapes, and explore our connections to and place in nature.

// March 4 through April 23; Johansson Projects, 2300 Telegraph Ave (Oakland), johanssonprojects.com

Pedagogy of Hope: Uncage, Reunify, Heal

This exhibition presented by Galería de la Raza at Yerba Buena Center for the Arts surveys the work of the Caravan for the Children Campaign, an effort to demand the release and reunification of migrant children separated from their families at the U.S.-Mexico border. Through photography and textiles, Pedagogy of Hope examines the group’s efforts and celebrates the humanity of immigrants in search of happiness.

// March 10 through May 29; YBCA, 701 Mission St (SoMa), ybca.org

Alice Neel: People Come First

Radical social justice champion and painter Alice Neel lands at the de Young this spring with a retrospective of her work, the first on the West Coast. Her paintings, drawings and watercolors depict the artist’s New York neighbors, political figures, activists, and queer figures and celebrate the dignity of all individuals.

// March 12 through July 10; de Young Museum, Golden Gate Park, 50 Hagiwara Tea Garden Dr (Inner Sunset), deyoung.famsf.org

Rotationships: A Solo Exhibition by Augustine Kofie

In Augustine Kofie’s Rotationships, the artist explores the idea of salvaging the forgotten remnants of the past. Using paper stock and pressboard from the 1950s through the 1980s, he presents a stripped-down artistry through futurist aesthetics.

// March 12 through April 9; Heron Arts, 7 Heron St (SoMa), heronarts.com

The Jim Henson Exhibition: Imagination Unlimited

Get ready for the Muppets and their trailblazing creator, Jim Henson, to take over The Contemporary Jewish Museum. The exhibition highlights the puppeteer’s groundbreaking television and film work and its social impact with 150 objects from the worlds of Sesame Street, Fraggle Rock, The Dark Crystal, and Labyrinth, as well as elements from his experimental and early projects.

// March 31 to August 14; CJM, 736 Mission St (SoMa), thecjm.org

Art Market San Francisco

After a two-year hiatus, the expansive Art Market returns to SF’s Fort Mason Festival Pavilion for four days in April. The fair will feature contemporary and modern works from 85 galleries around the world, including such local outfits as Ever Gold, Hang Art, Catharine Clark, and Hashimoto Contemporary. Also look out for site-specific installations—such as Cult Aimee Friberg’s Masako Miki display for the venue’s front entrance and Electric Works’ presentation of “The Spirit of the Animals is in the Wheels,” a pedal-powered beast of a sculpture by Juan Martinez and author Dave Eggers—as well as cocktails by Oakland’s Grand Lake Kitchen and bites from Kamdesh Afghan Kabab House and El Huarache Loco. Expect a vibrant atmosphere for collectors and the art-curious to connect with dealers and the creatives they represent. // April 21-24; Fort Mason Festival Pavilion, 2 Marina Blvd (Marina), artmarketsf.com

Thank you to our partners at Art Market.

Dance

Alvin Ailey American Dance Theater returns to Zellerbach Hall, March 29th through April 3rd.

(@alvinailey)

Alvin Ailey American Dance Theater

For the first time in two years, the exceptional Alvin Ailey American Dance Theater returns to Berkeley’s Zellerbach Hall with five separate programs. Each will feature new works by contemporary choreographers like Rennie Harris and the company’s current leader Robert Battle, as well as classic Ailey performances such “Revelations” from 1960.

// March 29 through April 3; 101 Zellerbach Hall #4800 (Berkeley), calperformances.org

The Tip of My Tongue

A company of entirely multilingual, minority, and immigrant dancers with the David Herrera Performance Company take on this piece exploring communication as a tool of cultural visibility, perseverance, and connection. Created by guest choreographer Antoine Hunter, the work uses real life experience to challenge the idea that all Americans speak English. March 31 to April 2 on the Steindler Stage at Z Space.

// 450 Florida St (Mission), zspace.org

Ballet Napantla’s Valentina

This original performance from New York company Ballet Nepantla illuminates the stories of women in Mexico’s revolutionary period. Combining traditional Mexican ballet folklorico with contemporary ballet, the work’s innovative choreography explores concepts of wealth and power, hope and despair, loss and triumph.

// April 15 -16; Brava Theater Center, 2781 24th St (Mission), brava.org

Swan Lake

Swan Lake made its American debut on the San Francisco Ballet stage in 1940. This spring, they bring the timeless classic back, this time choreographed by Helgi Tomasson. Indulge in the stunning take on this tale of love and betrayal.

// April 29 through May 8; War Memorial Opera House, 301 Van Ness Ave (Civic Center), sfballet.org

Music

Boyz II Men take the Davies Hall stage on April 1st and 2nd. (Courtesy of San Francisco Symphony)

Ninth Planet: Spirals & Echoes

In their fifth “expedition,” the Ninth Planet ensemble journeys through boundary-pushing musical compositions, including those of the 2019 and 2020 winners of the Suzanne and Lee Ettelson Award. Unlike traditional symphonic or chamber music, these performances explore sonic shape and texture in sometimes discordant and distorted ways, and evoke in the listener everything from mystery to aggression.

// March 19 at 7:30pm; Center for New Music, 55 Taylor St (Tenderloin), centerfornewmusic.com

Boyz II Men x SF Symphony

The soulful harmony of the iconic ‘90s trio Boyz II Men will rise and fall with the musicians of the San Francisco Symphony when they take the stage at Davies Symphony Hall. Together, they’ll perform unforgettable renditions of some of the group’s most celebrated hits, including “End of the Road,” “I’ll Make Love to You,” and “One Sweet Day.”

// April 1-2; Davies Symphony Hall, 201 Van Ness Ave (Civic Center), sfsymphony.org

Kronos Festival

SFJazz presents our own Kronos Quartet in a three-night showcase inspired by the diversity of the Bay Area. Performing a different program each evening, the festival will feature Malian griot singer Hawa Kassé Mady Diabaté; trombone and tuba star Jacob Garchik’s take on the music of Spielberg films; and the 13-movement piece “Cadenza on the Night Plain.”

// April 7-9; 201 Franklin St (Civic Center), sfjazz.org

Theater

San Francisco Playhouse will premiere Water by the Spoonful on March 16th.

(@ladydrexy)

Water by the Spoonful

This intense drama by writer Quiara Alegría Hudes, author of hit In the Heights, explores the boundaries of family and community across physical and cyber space. The 2012 Pulitzer Prize–winning play hinges on Elliot, a returning Iraq war vet working at Subway while trying to become an actor, and offers a heartfelt meditation on redemption.

// March 16 through April 23; San Francisco Playhouse, 450 Post St, Fl 2M (Union Square), sfplayhouse.org

Fefu and Her Friends

Performed in American Conservatory Theater’s non-traditional Strand space, Fefu and Her Friends is an immersive tour through the lives of eight women who have gathered together at a New England country home in 1935. Taking place in four rooms of Fefu’s home, the play is an intimate, provocative, funny, and searing look at womanhood by Cuban-American playwright María Irene Fornés. // March 24 to May 1; The Strand Theater, 1127 Market St (SoMa), act-sf.org

Richard II

The African-American Shakespeare Company hasn’t yet released many details about its upcoming production of Shakespeare’s Richard II, but there is one thing we can be certain of: The classic play, translated into modern verse by Naomi Iizuki, will speak to the Black experience in an innovative and spellbinding new way. An inside source tells us to expect a cool Afrofuturist vibe.

// April 16 to May 1; Marine’s Memorial Theater, 609 Sutter (Union Square), africanamericanshakes.org

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Weekend in Healdsburg: Art, nature + gastronomy meet in the buzzy Wine Country town

The rolling, grassy hillsides and vineyard views that stretch out in all directions on the drive north from San Francisco will immediately transport you to a rural state of mind. But once you get to the town of Healdsburg in Sonoma County, a mere hour from the city, you’ll quickly realize that this little hotspot is anything but sleepy.

While there are many historic and pioneering Wine Country places to experience here, the region has been undergoing a pulse of energy over the last few years, evolving with a slew of new places to eat, drink, relax and, eventually, sleep.

Here’s our idea of a perfect weekend itinerary in Healdsburg.

Friday: Check in at Montage Healdsburg and just chill.

Montage Healdsburg might be Wine Country’s most luxe escape yet.

(Christian Horan)

Check in: Montage Healdsburg

Pull off the road and wind your way up to the entrance of Montage (100 Montage Way), the luxurious resort that opened in January 2021. But beware: You might want to stay forever. Once you’ve checked in, there’s really no need to leave. The 130 bungalow-style guest rooms are all perched organically upon the oak-studded hills and have amenities like soft robes, soaking tubs, outdoor showers, and private patios (some with fire pits). The decadence picks up momentum with hot tub dips, cocktails fireside, massages, and delicious bites at every turn. The main nexus of buildings is home to the Scout Field Bar, Hazel Hill restaurant, Healdsburg Country Store, Spa Montage, fitness center, pool, and a seasonal pool bar. The surrounding vineyard, planted and overseen by lauded winemaker Jesse Katz of Aperture Cellars, will eventually supply the grapes for a special house label of wines.

Bikes, Hikes, Bows + Arrows

A unique onsite opportunity awaits at Compass Sports, an outpost up the hill from the Montage lobby that serves as ground zero for adventures. A variety of bikes and e-bikes are available for rent, including some with little wooden wagons perfect for lugging your picnic basket or that case of wine.

Montage guests can also opt in for a complimentary archery session with a guide, featuring hand-crafted bows and arrows made just for the hotel using traditional methods and natural materials by master craftsman Victor Kühn. From the target area, you’ll have a lovely view of the beehives perched on top of the hill.

If you are up for a bigger excursion, the hotel has partnered with Adventure IO to offer a roster of day trips and activities including bee-lining (the safe capture and identification of bees) with the resort’s resident beekeeper Candice Koseba (founder of Sonoma County Bee Company) to a helicopter ride with Butterfly Aviation over Sonoma County, ending with a private wine tasting experience. All of this can be booked directly through the concierge.

Lounge around.

It’s always nice to see a hotel lobby actually utilized. And this one, with plush furnishings and a myriad of seating configurations, is a great place to chill after adventuring. The Scout Field Bar, offers a tidy menu of upscale cocktails like the surprising and favorite John Chapman, made with a base of sherry cask-aged Source One vodka and topped with Thai coconut foam and crisp dehydrated apple slice. Go ahead and order some truffle fries, because you know you want to.

Dinner at Montage’s Hazel Hill

This lovely, low lit dining space is headed up by chef de cuisine Jason Pringle, who brings a bit of European sensibility to the seasonally changing menu. Dishes might include the astounding smoky sturgeon with kaluga caviar and fried beet ribbons or saffron chittara pasta with Dungeness crab. The house-made olive epi rolls are served with an amazing little pot of butter sprinkled with salt, and sommelier Petra Polakovicova’s list will guide you in the right direction. Desserts don’t disappoint thanks to the deft hand of newly appointed pastry chef Devin McDavid. Don’t miss the sensuous Greek yogurt panna cotta with white verjus sorbet.

Saturday in Healdsburg: Art First, Then Drinks on the Plaza

Think Healdsburg is all about wine? Think again at Lo & Behold, where cocktails like blackberry-shiso sangria (right) star.

(Courtesy of @loandbeholdhealdsburg)

Catch a ride.

One added perk to staying out at Montage Healdsburg is their partnership with Cadillac. Being the official “house car” means that guests can catch a free ride to and from Healdsburg Plaza, leaving the driving to someone else while you partake in the fun. The Plaza is a lovely zone, utilized by visitors and locals alike as any good town square should, with a host of food, drink, art and shopping options fanning out on all four sides. You can easily spend a day here.

Shop around.

There’s no shortage of shops to bop into here, and a cool place to start is at Bon Ton Studio(120 Matheson St.), where founder Erika Dawkins curates a cushy selection of artisan textiles and home goods. And while this little shop is a couple of years old now, she recently added a second location across the way called Bon Ton Baby (107 Plaza St.), just as she added a second child to her own family. That’s where you will fall in love with every tiny, soft, fuzzy, soothing-colored thing you see, even if there isn’t a baby in your life.

Art Walk

There are almost as many galleries in Healdsburg as there are tasting rooms, and it’s fun to break up your shopping stroll by stopping to gaze at some art. At the just-opened Legion Projects(711A Healdsburg Ave.) north of the Plaza, former fashion journalist turned artist Sydney Pfaff is curating modern art works with shows that rotate every few weeks. // in a historic building that was once a bank, you’ll find The Harris Gallery(320 Healdsburg Ave.), where two generations of artists, M.C Harris (dad) and A3L3XZAND3R (son, formerly known as Alex) has created a community hub that really indicates how Healdsburg, despite being a buzzy Wine Country getaway, is still a small town with a tight network of locals. Leah Harris (A3L3XZAND3R’s wife), just launched a wine program onsite, partnering with winemakers such as Wells Guthrie and Leo Hansen (of Leo Steen), to offer fights and glasses of impressive, custom-made wines enrobed in various Harris family art labels. This isn’t your grandmother’s white zinfandel at the art fair.

Lunch at Troubadour

There is some evidence that upscale sandwich shops are trending right now, and if you want to try one of the best examples of carefully sourced ingredients creating a perfect end result, definitely don’t miss Troubadour(381 Healdsburg Ave.). Owners Melissa Yanc and Sean McGaughey, both former chefs at the nearby Michelin-starred restaurant SingleThread, have just opened this shiny new space with a menu of classics, rotating specials, and a few sides. You’ll find creamy egg salad on thick slabs of milk bread and warm pastrami with caraway kraut on superseed loaf. The butterscotch pudding capped with chocolate ganache is earth-shattering. Also advisable is to walk a few blocks down to their sister bakeshop, Quail & Comdor, to grab treats like a chocolate tahini croissant or yuzu cream–filled morning bun. Seating is pretty limited onsite at Troubadour, with no outdoor seating, so it makes perfect sense to take your goodies to go and enjoy them al fresco on a bench at the Plaza.

Wine!

Some people would say that wine is the true reason to visit this place, with a unique placement at a central joint of Northern California Wine Country. And there certainly are plenty of great specimens to be found here, from historic estates to small production micro-labels.

Marine Layer(308B Center St.) is a newcomer in a sleek yet cozy tasting room on the Plaza, designed by the local duo at Hommeboys. You’ll taste through a concise list of cool-climate Sonoma Coast wines and have the opportunity to sample some plant-based mezze (apple tahini, beet hummus, fafda crackers) from Little Saint(25 North St.), an exclusive sneak peek, so to speak, from the highly anticipated restaurant that is yet-to-open in the former Shed space. // Around the corner sits the Idlewild tasting room (132 Plaza St., by appointment), an outpost for Mendocino-grown, Piedmontese-inspired natural wines. You’ll also find a few selections from fellow natural wine stars Ruth Lewandowski and Jolie-Laide. Pull up a sidewalk chair for a sip and a salumi plate. // Aeris(337 Healdsburg Ave.) is the newest addition to the Plaza wine world. This exciting project was launched by the pinot noir masters of Rhys in the Santa Cruz Mountains, who undertook an astounding task of planting Mount Etna varieties (carricante and nerello mascalese), never before grown in California, on a unique ridgetop site called Centennial Mountain in Northern Sonoma County.

Cocktails for Dinner

When a team of friends and restaurant professionals with over 25 years experience finally open their own thing, this is it. Lo & Behold(314 Healdsburg Ave.) is the suitably named debut from cocktail pioneers Laura Sanfilippo and Tara Heffernon. As expected, the drinks are the stars, with concoctions like the Phatty Margarita (avocado and coconut oil–washed tequila) and the Snap Back (gin, cucumber, snap peas, cardamom, and mint). You will want to drink many of these. They have partnered with chef Sean Raymond Kelley who offers a fun menu of equally exciting dishes like the tempura-fried Son-in-Law Eggs and the Winter Greens with house-made pierogi and sesame brown butter. It’s comfort food with a global sentiment.

Sunday: The Lazy Wine Road Home

You’d be remiss to visit Healdsburg without a stop to ogle the architecture and views over a glass of award-winning wine at Aperture.

(Courtesy of Aperture Cellars)

Bacchus Landing

On the outskirts of downtown Healdsburg sits a new compound called Bacchus Landing(14210 Bacchus Landing Way). Unveiled in July 2021 by siblings Monica and Francisco Lopez along with their parents Al and Dina, this family-run spot is equal parts event venue, wine tasting complex and gathering space, with a square-shaped plaza reminiscent of piazzas and zocalos around the world. Tasting rooms onsite highlight the family’s own wine label, Aldina, as well as wineries including 13th and Third, Dot Wine, Montagne Russe, and more. Each tasting space is surprisingly different from the next, offering an array of unique experiences. There’s also a market with a variety of snacks and drinks that you can enjoy in the picnic area complete with bocce ball courts, lawn games, and a rotating schedule of live music.

Aperture Cellars

As you depart town and head South toward Windsor, stop at Aperture Cellars(12291 Old Redwood Hwy), a stunning architectural gem, inspired by the physical aperture of a camera, where young winemaker Jesse Katz, son of famous photographer Andy Katz, makes memorable Bordeaux-style wines from Anderson Valley. He has planted some of the variety onsite, led by his prediction that our changing climate will mean that Sonoma County will one day soon make noteworthy cab. He is also well known for his other label, Devil Proof, Wine Advocate’s highest-rated Californian malbec of all time.

Don’t Leave

By now, maybe you just want to call in sick and stay one more night? It’s certainly tempting, given all the things you still have yet to try. The Harris family will tell you not to miss Asahi(335 Healdsburg Ave.), the small sushi spot that recently opened across the street from the gallery. If you can go on a Tuesday night, you’ll get the benefit of fish straight off the plane from Tokyo’s legendary Tsukiji Market. Later this spring, The Madrona(1001 Westside Rd.), a historic boutique hotel that’s been redesigned by Jay Jeffers, will reopen in the heart of Healdsburg, along with Little Saint and Maison Healdsburg, a wine bar and shop from another SingleThread alum.

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